We’re hhoooommmmeeee.
After a long, but uneventful flight, we landed at BWI at 9:00 AM on Sunday morning. Michelle picked us up at the airport. The best part is that she brought milk (for our cappuccino), cookies and brownies with her. Thanks, Michelle!!!!
We are happy to be home, but enjoyed every minute of our adventure. Where, next????
Sunday, November 28, 2010
November 26 - 27, 2010
Our flight to Mumbai (Bombay) was on time and uneventful. We were met at the airport by the OAT representative who took us to the “Le Royal Meridien” Hotel – probably the most high class place we’ve stayed on the entire trip. Since the other five in our group left for the airport at 11:00 PM, they didn’t even get a chance to sleep in the beds; however, since we don’t leave until Saturday night, we’ll enjoy our night of luxury. We quickly re-grouped and boarded a full-sized bus (which seemed a little overkill for only seven of us!) for a three hour tour of Mumbai. It is an extremely interesting city – a mix of the rich and poor, slums and penthouses, new and ancient with plenty of pollution and traffic thrown in. Our local guide was very well informed and kept up a steady stream of commentary during the ride. We made a few stops but mostly just took in the sights from the bus. We saw evidence of heightened security as today was 26/11, the second anniversary of the Mumbai terrorist attack. Tara, Susan, Harold and I met in the bar for a few last “happy hour” Kingfisher beers and a pizza, and then we were off to bed.
Our last day and it was a perfect way to end a marvelous two months in “Incredible !ndia”. We left the hotel by auto rickshaw at 8:00 and went to the train station. We boarded the fast train for Mumbai Central– a 40 minute ride. The train was crowded and, although we weren’t hanging out the door, we were only one back from the open door – just like all the movies showing trains in India. We walked from the train station to the Gateway of India and caught a ferry for Elephanto Island – a one hour ride and great way to see Mumbai from the Arabian Sea. On the island is a labyrinth of cave-temples carved into basalt rock. The main Shiva-dedicated temple is a latticework of courtyards, halls, pillars and shrines. The most impressive sight is a 6 meter tall statue depicting the three faces of Shiva as destroyer, creator and preserver of the universe. The temples were created between 450 and 750 AD. On our return to the city, we had a last Indian meal (veg and non-veg kabobs with Kingfisher beer and garlic naan). We then did a walking tour around the center of the city. We returned to the hotel by train, showered and changed and took a taxi to the airport. We are through security and waiting for our plane.
Since we are now officially off the OAT tour, I will summarize our experience. The first two weeks were absolutely fantastic. There were so many amazing sights and our guide, Sanjay, was the absolute BEST! Although the houseboat was thoroughly enjoyable, some of the extension tour to the south was a little bit of a letdown. Perhaps it was the fact that Cochin did not have many exciting sights, perhaps it was the fact that our guide, George, lacked the spark to make the city interesting, perhaps it was the fact that two of our afternoons were free to relax at the hotel and we are not used to relaxing or perhaps it was the fact that we were all a little tired of traveling and ready to go home. But, all in all, I would highly recommend this trip (especially the first two weeks) to anyone with a yearning to learn more about the fascinating country, India.
Our last day and it was a perfect way to end a marvelous two months in “Incredible !ndia”. We left the hotel by auto rickshaw at 8:00 and went to the train station. We boarded the fast train for Mumbai Central– a 40 minute ride. The train was crowded and, although we weren’t hanging out the door, we were only one back from the open door – just like all the movies showing trains in India. We walked from the train station to the Gateway of India and caught a ferry for Elephanto Island – a one hour ride and great way to see Mumbai from the Arabian Sea. On the island is a labyrinth of cave-temples carved into basalt rock. The main Shiva-dedicated temple is a latticework of courtyards, halls, pillars and shrines. The most impressive sight is a 6 meter tall statue depicting the three faces of Shiva as destroyer, creator and preserver of the universe. The temples were created between 450 and 750 AD. On our return to the city, we had a last Indian meal (veg and non-veg kabobs with Kingfisher beer and garlic naan). We then did a walking tour around the center of the city. We returned to the hotel by train, showered and changed and took a taxi to the airport. We are through security and waiting for our plane.
Since we are now officially off the OAT tour, I will summarize our experience. The first two weeks were absolutely fantastic. There were so many amazing sights and our guide, Sanjay, was the absolute BEST! Although the houseboat was thoroughly enjoyable, some of the extension tour to the south was a little bit of a letdown. Perhaps it was the fact that Cochin did not have many exciting sights, perhaps it was the fact that our guide, George, lacked the spark to make the city interesting, perhaps it was the fact that two of our afternoons were free to relax at the hotel and we are not used to relaxing or perhaps it was the fact that we were all a little tired of traveling and ready to go home. But, all in all, I would highly recommend this trip (especially the first two weeks) to anyone with a yearning to learn more about the fascinating country, India.
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| Mumbai - Left, Taj Mahal Hotel where President Obama stayed And Right, Gateway of India |
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| Mumbai slums |
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| Where they wash and dry laundry |
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| We stopped and watched the boys playing cricket |
November 24 - 25, 2010
An abundance of rain in the mountains caused extremely high waters in the waterways. As we were sailing back to our starting point on Wednesday morning, we could see that many home and fields were flooded or close to being flooded (which would ruin the rice crop). We left the boat at 9:00 AM and walked without shoes through puddles and ankle high water to get to the bus. We made a stop at a coir factory where the women take fibers from the outside of the coconut, make rope, sometimes dye it, then the men weave it into rugs, door mats, etc.
After a 1.5 hour bus ride, we arrived back in Cochin where one can see a 16th century Synagogue, ancient mosques, Hindu temples, Christian churches and many Portuguese, Dutch and English buildings. We stopped at St. Francis Church which is India’s oldest European church constructed in 1503 by the Portuguese Franciscan friars. Vasco da Gama, who died in Cochin in 1524, was buried on this spot. We then walked along the beach where we saw many giant Chinese fishing nets and fishermen selling their catches and offering to cook and serve us. We declined and all went to a restaurant for a mediocre lunch – we are spoiled by the wonderful meals served on our houseboat. We then went to our hotel and had a rest before meeting at 5:15 for a traditional Keralan show. The art form of Kathakali has elements that stem from 2nd-century temple rituals. The Kathakali performance is the dramatized presentation of a play, usually based on the Hindu epics. Drummers and singers accompany the actors who tell a story through their hand gestures and facial expressions. When we arrived at the small theater, we went up to the second level where we watched three actors (only men perform in these shows) applying their makeup. We then went downstairs to watch the show, which was extremely interesting and entertaining. It was divided into two parts: the first was a demonstration of the various facial and body movements to reflect the nine emotions and the second was an enactment of a story while the drum played and an actor sang. After the show, we went to the Grand Hotel for one of the best dinners we’ve had on the trip which included seafood bisque, fish curry, and many other Keralan delicacies topped off by gulab jamum and ice cream.
After a huge breakfast buffet at the hotel, we went back to the old part of Cochin and first visited Mattancherry Palace built by the Portuguese in 1555 and presented to the king of Cochin as a gesture of goodwill (after the Portuguese had destroyed much of Cochin – seems only fair!). The star attraction here is the astonishingly preserved Hindu murals depicting the story of Rama. We next visited the Pardesi Synagogue and Jew Town, a bustling port area and center of the spice trade. Scores of small firms huddle together in old, dilapidated buildings and the air is filled with the aromas of ginger, cardamom, cumin, turmeric and cloves. We stopped at a women’s cooperative where Harold bought a lungi (we’ll leave the details until you see him in it). Finally, we went to the imposing Catholic Santa Cruz Basilica which was originally built on the site in 1506. After lunch in a nearby hotel restaurant, we returned for an afternoon rest before meeting up at 5:00 for a sunset cruise in the working Cochin harbor. From there, we went for our third home hosted dinner. Miriam and her daughter served the dinner and we heard all about the daughter’s upcoming wedding. As is customary in India, her mother found a suitable boy (same religion, same status) and contacted his parents. When both sets of parents approved the match, the couple met for the first time two months ago. At this point they had the option of refusing to proceed, but they agreed, got engaged, they will be married on January 29th. Although there are some love marriages in India, in most instances, it seems that arranged marriages are still the norm. We returned to the hotel and are getting ready for bed and a 5:00 AM wake-up call. Oh, and P.S. Happy Thanksgiving to everyone at home!
After a 1.5 hour bus ride, we arrived back in Cochin where one can see a 16th century Synagogue, ancient mosques, Hindu temples, Christian churches and many Portuguese, Dutch and English buildings. We stopped at St. Francis Church which is India’s oldest European church constructed in 1503 by the Portuguese Franciscan friars. Vasco da Gama, who died in Cochin in 1524, was buried on this spot. We then walked along the beach where we saw many giant Chinese fishing nets and fishermen selling their catches and offering to cook and serve us. We declined and all went to a restaurant for a mediocre lunch – we are spoiled by the wonderful meals served on our houseboat. We then went to our hotel and had a rest before meeting at 5:15 for a traditional Keralan show. The art form of Kathakali has elements that stem from 2nd-century temple rituals. The Kathakali performance is the dramatized presentation of a play, usually based on the Hindu epics. Drummers and singers accompany the actors who tell a story through their hand gestures and facial expressions. When we arrived at the small theater, we went up to the second level where we watched three actors (only men perform in these shows) applying their makeup. We then went downstairs to watch the show, which was extremely interesting and entertaining. It was divided into two parts: the first was a demonstration of the various facial and body movements to reflect the nine emotions and the second was an enactment of a story while the drum played and an actor sang. After the show, we went to the Grand Hotel for one of the best dinners we’ve had on the trip which included seafood bisque, fish curry, and many other Keralan delicacies topped off by gulab jamum and ice cream.
After a huge breakfast buffet at the hotel, we went back to the old part of Cochin and first visited Mattancherry Palace built by the Portuguese in 1555 and presented to the king of Cochin as a gesture of goodwill (after the Portuguese had destroyed much of Cochin – seems only fair!). The star attraction here is the astonishingly preserved Hindu murals depicting the story of Rama. We next visited the Pardesi Synagogue and Jew Town, a bustling port area and center of the spice trade. Scores of small firms huddle together in old, dilapidated buildings and the air is filled with the aromas of ginger, cardamom, cumin, turmeric and cloves. We stopped at a women’s cooperative where Harold bought a lungi (we’ll leave the details until you see him in it). Finally, we went to the imposing Catholic Santa Cruz Basilica which was originally built on the site in 1506. After lunch in a nearby hotel restaurant, we returned for an afternoon rest before meeting up at 5:00 for a sunset cruise in the working Cochin harbor. From there, we went for our third home hosted dinner. Miriam and her daughter served the dinner and we heard all about the daughter’s upcoming wedding. As is customary in India, her mother found a suitable boy (same religion, same status) and contacted his parents. When both sets of parents approved the match, the couple met for the first time two months ago. At this point they had the option of refusing to proceed, but they agreed, got engaged, they will be married on January 29th. Although there are some love marriages in India, in most instances, it seems that arranged marriages are still the norm. We returned to the hotel and are getting ready for bed and a 5:00 AM wake-up call. Oh, and P.S. Happy Thanksgiving to everyone at home!
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| The rising waters flood some houses. |
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| Our walk through the puddles from the boat to the bus. |
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| Chinese fishing nets in Cochin |
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| The actors apply their makeup |
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| The performance |
Wednesday, November 24, 2010
November 21 – 23, 2010
After breakfast, the seven of us taking the OAT extension to South India went to the airport and took the 3.5 hour flight to Cochin (now Kochi). We were met by the OAT guide, George, and drove 2.5 hours by bus to Allepey, the starting point of our adventure.
We boarded two kettuvallams (houseboat designed like a traditional rice barge) which were fully equipped with kitchens, two bedrooms each (four of us slept on one, three on the other) and bathrooms with sink, toilet and shower. At the front of one boat was our dining room and the other had a seating area. The houseboats are made from all natural fibers – bamboo, coconut rope, betel nut beams, and wild pineapple mats on the wall, all sealed with burnt cashew nut oil. We got settled in our rooms, and then met in the dining room for a delicious dinner.
Harold had a bad night – the “Ganges Revenge” caught up with him. He spent all day Monday, resting and eating only rice. (But, by Tuesday, he was back to normal). The rest of us had a delicious breakfast (fresh omelets and rice noodles topped with coconut juice and cinnamon), and then our boats set off and we meandered along the lovely backwaters. There is a 900 km network of waterways that fringe the coast and trickle far inland. As Monday and Tuesday were incredibly relaxing but similar days, I’ll summarize both days. Although we slept on separate boats, we all spent the days together on one boat. We stopped several times each day to walk through small villages and talk to the villagers and experience life in rural south India. It is fascinating to see the shop keepers, barbers, fishermen, school children, rice farmers working in the fields and women cleaning their clothes in the river. Everyone, especially the children, was extremely friendly and wanted to know our names and where we came from, asked to have their photos taken and asked for pens (this request was universal whenever we met kids throughout India). This area couldn’t be more different from the hustle and bustle of Delhi. Yet again, we see stark contrasts in the life of a person living in India. Kerala is peaceful and beautiful and we have thoroughly enjoyed our time on the river as we pass impossibly green rice fields, and banana, mango and coconut trees.
The boat crew was fantastic – always seeing to it that there is cold water, hot chai, juice and snacks (such as fried plantains, topped with coconut, cardamom and sugar or chilies dipped in chickpea batter and deep fried) and the meals are wonderful (fish, chicken, okra, potatoes, carrots, beans, lentils, rice, etc all seasoned with the local spices as well as at least five different kinds of homemade breads). The cooks invited us into the galley several times so that we could watch and participate in the food preparation. Tuesday’s lunch was exceptional: we had a huge banana leaf for a plate, and there was fresh fish and 18 different sides plus a wonderful rice dessert. Although we all enjoyed the food in north India, we think the food in the south is equally delicious (and maybe a tad more so)!
The primary language in Kerala is Malayalam which sounds and looks like nothing we’ve ever encountered before. Some of the people we’ve met speak English but it seems that Hindi is a language which must be studied in school but is not practically used here at all. Another difference between the north and south is religion. Here there are many Christians (almost all are Syrian Catholic or Latin Catholic). This is the result of the many European missionaries that came to India. Some of the villages we visited: Punnamadam, Kanjippadam, Thoffappally, Thakazhy, Chambakualm, and Vembanad Lake.
Tara, the youngest member of our group and a wonderful yoga teacher, had some of us on the floor helping us with our poses. Then, it was time for our last dinner on the boat. George, our OAT guide, brought out the boat staff and helped translate as we found out about their lives. Now we are getting ready for showers and bed as we will be “setting sail” at 7:45 tomorrow morning.
We boarded two kettuvallams (houseboat designed like a traditional rice barge) which were fully equipped with kitchens, two bedrooms each (four of us slept on one, three on the other) and bathrooms with sink, toilet and shower. At the front of one boat was our dining room and the other had a seating area. The houseboats are made from all natural fibers – bamboo, coconut rope, betel nut beams, and wild pineapple mats on the wall, all sealed with burnt cashew nut oil. We got settled in our rooms, and then met in the dining room for a delicious dinner.
Harold had a bad night – the “Ganges Revenge” caught up with him. He spent all day Monday, resting and eating only rice. (But, by Tuesday, he was back to normal). The rest of us had a delicious breakfast (fresh omelets and rice noodles topped with coconut juice and cinnamon), and then our boats set off and we meandered along the lovely backwaters. There is a 900 km network of waterways that fringe the coast and trickle far inland. As Monday and Tuesday were incredibly relaxing but similar days, I’ll summarize both days. Although we slept on separate boats, we all spent the days together on one boat. We stopped several times each day to walk through small villages and talk to the villagers and experience life in rural south India. It is fascinating to see the shop keepers, barbers, fishermen, school children, rice farmers working in the fields and women cleaning their clothes in the river. Everyone, especially the children, was extremely friendly and wanted to know our names and where we came from, asked to have their photos taken and asked for pens (this request was universal whenever we met kids throughout India). This area couldn’t be more different from the hustle and bustle of Delhi. Yet again, we see stark contrasts in the life of a person living in India. Kerala is peaceful and beautiful and we have thoroughly enjoyed our time on the river as we pass impossibly green rice fields, and banana, mango and coconut trees.
The boat crew was fantastic – always seeing to it that there is cold water, hot chai, juice and snacks (such as fried plantains, topped with coconut, cardamom and sugar or chilies dipped in chickpea batter and deep fried) and the meals are wonderful (fish, chicken, okra, potatoes, carrots, beans, lentils, rice, etc all seasoned with the local spices as well as at least five different kinds of homemade breads). The cooks invited us into the galley several times so that we could watch and participate in the food preparation. Tuesday’s lunch was exceptional: we had a huge banana leaf for a plate, and there was fresh fish and 18 different sides plus a wonderful rice dessert. Although we all enjoyed the food in north India, we think the food in the south is equally delicious (and maybe a tad more so)!
The primary language in Kerala is Malayalam which sounds and looks like nothing we’ve ever encountered before. Some of the people we’ve met speak English but it seems that Hindi is a language which must be studied in school but is not practically used here at all. Another difference between the north and south is religion. Here there are many Christians (almost all are Syrian Catholic or Latin Catholic). This is the result of the many European missionaries that came to India. Some of the villages we visited: Punnamadam, Kanjippadam, Thoffappally, Thakazhy, Chambakualm, and Vembanad Lake.
Tara, the youngest member of our group and a wonderful yoga teacher, had some of us on the floor helping us with our poses. Then, it was time for our last dinner on the boat. George, our OAT guide, brought out the boat staff and helped translate as we found out about their lives. Now we are getting ready for showers and bed as we will be “setting sail” at 7:45 tomorrow morning.
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| Our houseboat |
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| Total relaxation on the boat |
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| Our wonderful thali lunch served by the staff |
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| Harold models a dhoti - the traditional dress of men in Kerala |
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| Village women we met on our walk - four generations. The women in red is getting married on Friday. |
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| Sunset on the waterway |
November 20, 2010
On Saturday morning, we visited the Bharat Mata Temple (Mother India Temple). It was built in 1918 and is a novel temple, dedicated to Mother India, which instead of the customary Gods and Goddesses, houses a perfect relief map (with a scale of 1 inch = 1.1 miles) carved on marble of the Indian subcontinent. We then walked around a large vegetable market outside the gates.
We returned to the hotel to complete our packing and get ready for a 12:30 departure. When I was packing up, I came across bottle of Ganges River water which I had collected the previous day. I had put the murky, heavy polluted water in a plastic water bottle and removed the label so it was easy to identify. As I handled the bottle, I noticed that it was only half full. I asked Harold what happened to the water. He blanched and said he got thirsty while packing and thought it was clean water and drank it. We panicked! He first purged himself, then immediately started taking cipro (antibiotics). Some of the others of our group gave him some helpful remedies. All we can do is wait and see.
We drove to the airport and had an uneventful one-hour flight back to Gurgaon, on the outskirts of south Delhi. This is a newly built city which houses the call centers of many large foreign companies.
We all met in the bar area at the hotel for drinks and snacks and a final goodbye to Sanjay and those departing. It was a great group of people and I hope we’ll stay in touch. We will surely miss Sanjay who has probably spoiled us for any other OAT tour guide. His enthusiasm for and knowledge of India were incredible. So, after our hugs and farewells, we got ready for our last night’s sleep in northern India. Tomorrow, it is off to the south.
We returned to the hotel to complete our packing and get ready for a 12:30 departure. When I was packing up, I came across bottle of Ganges River water which I had collected the previous day. I had put the murky, heavy polluted water in a plastic water bottle and removed the label so it was easy to identify. As I handled the bottle, I noticed that it was only half full. I asked Harold what happened to the water. He blanched and said he got thirsty while packing and thought it was clean water and drank it. We panicked! He first purged himself, then immediately started taking cipro (antibiotics). Some of the others of our group gave him some helpful remedies. All we can do is wait and see.
We drove to the airport and had an uneventful one-hour flight back to Gurgaon, on the outskirts of south Delhi. This is a newly built city which houses the call centers of many large foreign companies.
We all met in the bar area at the hotel for drinks and snacks and a final goodbye to Sanjay and those departing. It was a great group of people and I hope we’ll stay in touch. We will surely miss Sanjay who has probably spoiled us for any other OAT tour guide. His enthusiasm for and knowledge of India were incredible. So, after our hugs and farewells, we got ready for our last night’s sleep in northern India. Tomorrow, it is off to the south.
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| Marble relief map of Mother India |
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| Cow enjoys the vegetable market |
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| Selling his vegetables |
Friday, November 19, 2010
November 19, 2010
Every time I decide that an experience is the highlight of our trip, something else more amazing comes along. And Friday morning, so far, is number one on the list. Our wakeup call was at 5 AM and we were rolling in the bus by 5:30 to return to the spot of the previous night. Whereas the action Thursday night was by the priests, in the morning, all activity is by the local people and pilgrims to the city. The Ganges River provides millions of Indians an important link to their spirituality. (A side note: the Hindus believe that there are four mothers –their Birth Mother, Mother Cow, Mother Ganges and Mother India.) Every day about 60,000 people go down to the Varanasi ghats to take a holy dip, wash clothes, and spread ashes in the river (for the dead who had been cremated elsewhere). We again took the rowing boat and passed the pilgrims bathing in the river and offering their sun salutations. We disembarked for a while to walk around and to experience the atmosphere; it was dizzying. There was so much activity, it was difficult to know where to look first. Perhaps, just sitting on a high step and observing was the best way to soak it all in. We collected a little Ganges water to bring home as a few drops ensure purity of body and soul. We rowed back to the starting point and walked through the labyrinth of alleys which date back to 1400 BC. Our bus returned to the hotel at 8:30 where we had breakfast and a short break.
We met again at 10:00 for a visit to the city of Sarnath. In the 6th century BC, Buddha came to Sarnath to preach his message after he achieved enlightenment at Bodhgaya. He preached his famous first sermon in Sarnath to a handful of followers. In the 3rd century BC, King Ashoka had magnificent stupas and monasteries erected as well as an engraved pillar which he used to spread the word of Buddhism. In 640 AD there were 1500 monks living in large monasteries; however, Buddhism went into decline and when the Muslim invaders destroyed most of the city’s buildings, Sarnath disappeared altogether. It was rediscovered when the British archaeologists started excavations and Sarnath regained some of its past glory. Today, the city is one of the four important sites on the Buddist circuit. We visited the Buddhist temple and museum there.
On our way back to the hotel, we stopped at a place where they make silk brocade, an ancient art in Varanasi. The current owner is 7th generation. The pieces were beautiful and we bought one to use as a wall hanging.
The group met again in a hotel conference room at 5:00 for an hour of yoga. Like the yoga we did with CCS, it is different from the “American” yoga in that it concentrates more on your inner self than on cardio exercise. We ended with some meditation which was extremely relaxing. At 6:30 the group met with Sanjay for a recap of the entire two week trip. As a treat, he provided wine and snacks. And, as an extra special treat, he had a female hotel staff member come with 11 6-meter lengths of fabric and outfitted all the females in saris. We then all got a bhindi (dot on the forehead). There was much (drunken) laughter and joy as we approach the end of our trip (although seven of us are extending our trip and flying to the south of India). From there, we went to dinner (with yet more wine) where we had a wonderful kabob dinner. So, we are extremely full now and ready for bed!
We met again at 10:00 for a visit to the city of Sarnath. In the 6th century BC, Buddha came to Sarnath to preach his message after he achieved enlightenment at Bodhgaya. He preached his famous first sermon in Sarnath to a handful of followers. In the 3rd century BC, King Ashoka had magnificent stupas and monasteries erected as well as an engraved pillar which he used to spread the word of Buddhism. In 640 AD there were 1500 monks living in large monasteries; however, Buddhism went into decline and when the Muslim invaders destroyed most of the city’s buildings, Sarnath disappeared altogether. It was rediscovered when the British archaeologists started excavations and Sarnath regained some of its past glory. Today, the city is one of the four important sites on the Buddist circuit. We visited the Buddhist temple and museum there.
On our way back to the hotel, we stopped at a place where they make silk brocade, an ancient art in Varanasi. The current owner is 7th generation. The pieces were beautiful and we bought one to use as a wall hanging.
The group met again in a hotel conference room at 5:00 for an hour of yoga. Like the yoga we did with CCS, it is different from the “American” yoga in that it concentrates more on your inner self than on cardio exercise. We ended with some meditation which was extremely relaxing. At 6:30 the group met with Sanjay for a recap of the entire two week trip. As a treat, he provided wine and snacks. And, as an extra special treat, he had a female hotel staff member come with 11 6-meter lengths of fabric and outfitted all the females in saris. We then all got a bhindi (dot on the forehead). There was much (drunken) laughter and joy as we approach the end of our trip (although seven of us are extending our trip and flying to the south of India). From there, we went to dinner (with yet more wine) where we had a wonderful kabob dinner. So, we are extremely full now and ready for bed!
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| Sunrise on the Ganges River. |
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| Some morning activity on the Ganges. |
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| Bathing and offering prayers in the river. |
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| The Buddhist temple in Sarnath. |
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| Weaving the silk brocade |
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| Decked out in our beautiful saris. |
November 17 - 18, 2010
Wednesday was a day of travel – from Agra to Khajuraho. We began the journey by train from Agra to Jhansi; this was a 2.5 hour ride. Some facts about the India railway which is the largest in the world: they employ 1.2 million people, 15 million people per day use the railway, it is the cheapest in the world ($.04/km) there are 105,000 km of rail, it is over 100 years old and it is Government run with its own budget. The train was very comfortable, quite comparable to Amtrak and they even gave each person a big bottle of water and snack. We were in an air-conditioned, reserved-seat train; however, we did see trains with no windows and lots of people dangling out the door. Many used to ride on the roof, but, because there are electric lines above now, not so many do this anymore. From the train station, we boarded a bus for a long ride to Khajuraho stopping for lunch at a pleasant old palace with a walk around the market. We arrived at the Radisson Hotel about 5:00, met in Sanjay’s room for another rum and coke party, then headed to dinner at 8:15.
On Thursday after breakfast, we met up with another guide who took us to view some of the Hindu and Jain temples and erotic sculptures in Khajuraho. The Kamasutra carvings that swath the temples are among the finest temple art in the world. Around the temples are bands of exceedingly artistic stonework showing a storyboard of life a millennium ago – gods, goddesses, warriors, musicians, real and mythological animals. Two elements appear repeatedly – women and sex. It was an incredible experience and we only wished we had had more time to look closely at the art.
We returned to the hotel about 12:30, packed our suitcases and left for the airport for the 50-minute flight to Varanasi. We got to another Radisson Hotel but had no time to go to our rooms. We hurriedly boarded our bus for an unbelievable experience. Varanasi is to Hindus what Mecca is to Muslims. Varanasi has been the center for learning and civilization for over 2000 years, claims to be one of the oldest living cities in the world and is the holiest city in India. It is the city of Shiva where Hindu pilgrims come to wash away a lifetime of sins in the Ganges River or to cremate their loved ones. Varanasi has always been an auspicious place to die since expiring here offers moksha (liberation from the cycle of birth and death). Our bus could only take us part of the way, we then boarded bicycle rickshaws where we had another harrowing experience darting through the traffic, people and animals. The last 10 minutes was by foot and we were, as usual, accosted by people selling their wares and occasionally beggars. Spiritual life in Varanasi revolves around the 80 ghats, the long string of bathing steps leading down to the river on the western bank of the Ganges. We boarded a rowing boat and were taken first to the site where cremations were taking place. There were 10 fires burning corpses with many lined up to be cremated. We then went to a place to watch the aarti ceremony which is performed by the Hindu priests at sunset 365 days/year in thanksgiving to the Ganges. To return to the hotel, we reversed the process: walk, rickshaw and bus. By this time, we were all starving so we went to the lounge at the hotel for beer, pizza, and chocolate mud pie!
On Thursday after breakfast, we met up with another guide who took us to view some of the Hindu and Jain temples and erotic sculptures in Khajuraho. The Kamasutra carvings that swath the temples are among the finest temple art in the world. Around the temples are bands of exceedingly artistic stonework showing a storyboard of life a millennium ago – gods, goddesses, warriors, musicians, real and mythological animals. Two elements appear repeatedly – women and sex. It was an incredible experience and we only wished we had had more time to look closely at the art.
We returned to the hotel about 12:30, packed our suitcases and left for the airport for the 50-minute flight to Varanasi. We got to another Radisson Hotel but had no time to go to our rooms. We hurriedly boarded our bus for an unbelievable experience. Varanasi is to Hindus what Mecca is to Muslims. Varanasi has been the center for learning and civilization for over 2000 years, claims to be one of the oldest living cities in the world and is the holiest city in India. It is the city of Shiva where Hindu pilgrims come to wash away a lifetime of sins in the Ganges River or to cremate their loved ones. Varanasi has always been an auspicious place to die since expiring here offers moksha (liberation from the cycle of birth and death). Our bus could only take us part of the way, we then boarded bicycle rickshaws where we had another harrowing experience darting through the traffic, people and animals. The last 10 minutes was by foot and we were, as usual, accosted by people selling their wares and occasionally beggars. Spiritual life in Varanasi revolves around the 80 ghats, the long string of bathing steps leading down to the river on the western bank of the Ganges. We boarded a rowing boat and were taken first to the site where cremations were taking place. There were 10 fires burning corpses with many lined up to be cremated. We then went to a place to watch the aarti ceremony which is performed by the Hindu priests at sunset 365 days/year in thanksgiving to the Ganges. To return to the hotel, we reversed the process: walk, rickshaw and bus. By this time, we were all starving so we went to the lounge at the hotel for beer, pizza, and chocolate mud pie!
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| Some of the erotic art at the Hindu temple. |
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| We are standing in front of one of the many Hindu temples in Khajuraho. |
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| Our nighttime walk in Varanasi. |
Tuesday, November 16, 2010
November 16, 2010
The Taj Mahal !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
It’s been said (by Bill Clinton?) that the world is divided into two groups: those who have seen the Taj Mahal and those who have not. This morning, our group crossed over and we were mesmerized. We got there early so it was not crowded and it was still slightly hazy. It is just an amazing structure and neither words nor photos do it justice. Described by Rabindranath Tagore as a “teardrop on the face of eternity” and by Kipling as “the ivory gate through which all dreams pass”, the Taj has elicited astonishment and hyperbole in equal measure for four and a half centuries. So, join our group and come to India to be enthralled by this magical, mysterious and completely unforgettable monument to eternal love.
From the Taj, we went to the Agra Fort. Of all the forts we’ve seen (and we’ve seen a few!) this one is the best preserved, most impressive and most opulent. Built between 1565 and 1573, it was the seat and stronghold of the Mughal Empire. Our next stop was at an inlaid marble craft store. The pieces were truly works of art and we enjoyed looking (but not purchasing). Our last stop of the day was a spice and tea shop. We have some time for relaxation before dinner.
It’s been said (by Bill Clinton?) that the world is divided into two groups: those who have seen the Taj Mahal and those who have not. This morning, our group crossed over and we were mesmerized. We got there early so it was not crowded and it was still slightly hazy. It is just an amazing structure and neither words nor photos do it justice. Described by Rabindranath Tagore as a “teardrop on the face of eternity” and by Kipling as “the ivory gate through which all dreams pass”, the Taj has elicited astonishment and hyperbole in equal measure for four and a half centuries. So, join our group and come to India to be enthralled by this magical, mysterious and completely unforgettable monument to eternal love.
From the Taj, we went to the Agra Fort. Of all the forts we’ve seen (and we’ve seen a few!) this one is the best preserved, most impressive and most opulent. Built between 1565 and 1573, it was the seat and stronghold of the Mughal Empire. Our next stop was at an inlaid marble craft store. The pieces were truly works of art and we enjoyed looking (but not purchasing). Our last stop of the day was a spice and tea shop. We have some time for relaxation before dinner.
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| We are standing in front of the majestic Taj Mahal! |
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| The Taj |
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| The Agra Fort - private residence |
November 13 - 15, 2010
We left the hotel at 6:45 AM on Saturday for a Canter ride through a section of the National Park. Having taken a safari in Africa where so many kinds of wildlife abound, it is difficult not to make comparisons. But, Africa does not have tigers and India does. But, although we saw crocodiles, peacocks, deer, gazelles, antelope, snakes, eagles, vultures and many other birds on our ride, we did not spot the elusive, and much sought after, tiger. In 1900, there were 50,000 tigers in India and today there are 1411 tigers in the whole country with 30 in the Ranthambore National Park. The number of tigers had diminished to single digits due to poaching, but, luckily, India realized how close to extinction the tigers were and are doing what they can to build up the numbers. We had a few hours of relaxation around the pool and another wonderful lunch. Then, we met again at 2:30 for the afternoon ride. The weather was perfect, the scenery was spectacular and the naturalist knowledgeable and determined, but, alas, no tigers. We saw fresh paw prints, but never saw the big cat. But considering the park is over 1400 square kilometers, we shouldn’t be too surprised that we didn’t spot one of the 30 tigers. Disappointed but ready to carry on, we met at 7:00 for happy hour, dinner and some local entertainment.
Sunday is called a “Day in the Life” by OAT (Overseas Adventure Travels), our tour group. We left the hotel and took a 10 minute drive to a local village, Ram Singh Pura, where we were able to observe daily life in a rural village. Indians divide the country into two parts: modern India (30% of the population) and rural India (70% of the population – mostly farming). We began by visiting the local “Walmart” where everything a villager might need is in a tiny 10x10 stall and accounts are hand written in a ledger book. We then went to the Saini Adarsh Vidhya Mandir, a school which is supported by OAT ($10 of each tour booked through OAT goes to supporting a good cause in various countries around the world). At the school, we spent time with the children and, even though it was Sunday, they were there to greet us with songs and conversation. We then went to a nearby house where we had tea and cookies and could observe life in a local home first hand. From there, it was a short drive to Dastkar, a women’s cooperative founded in 1981 to provide employment opportunities through the teaching and production of traditional Indian handcrafts. The skilled female artisans here create a wide array of goods to sell, including block prints and patchwork cloth. Of course, we all left with something (well, it is a good cause, after all!). After another short ride, we stopped for lunch at an unlikely spot. Amid all the hustle and bustle of the market, there was a large walled field with a beautiful tent set up by OAT for our lunch. From there we traveled to our OAT camp in Rajasthan, on the edge of a small town, Geejgarh, in the heart of rural India. We were greeted with drums, flower garlands, and a cool drink. The rural retreat consists of 14 air-cooled, tent-roof cottages each with a veranda and private bath. There is a separate dining area where a delicious dinner and breakfast were served. After settling in, we climbed aboard our decorated camels and made our way through a nearby village where we could observe the farmers’ daily lives and wave to the many children who cheered us on. This was an unforgettable experience!!! After our ride, we all went to the kitchen for a cooking demonstration where we watched the cook make alu palek (spinach and potatoes) and chappati (which I had made at CCS). From there we had some drinks outside and a dozen men provided entertainment (drums, singing, dancing). Of course, they had us all join in the dancing. We had dinner, and then retired for a peaceful night.
We woke up Monday morning to the sound of rain on the tent – actually a very soothing sound. The rain, I’m sure, made the neighboring farmers extremely happy. This is only the second time in six weeks that we’ve had rain so we aren’t complaining. After breakfast, we had a cricket lesson – this sport is the Indian obsession. Sanjay and the staff demonstrated some of the moves and we all joined in until rain sent us into the dining tent. We then had a friendly male vs. female competition on the art of carrying water jugs on our heads. The day cleared up and we left the camp and visited the nearby step well. Before entering a temple, Hindus bathe and change their clothes. This well was built over 1000 years ago and is an amazing sight. After walking around inside the well, we visited with some local people who were making clay pots – an ancient craft. Two from our group tried their hands at the wheel. We then drove to Agra, stopping for lunch along the way. As always, the varied sights along the way kept us entertained.
We are staying at the Jaypee Palace Hotel and Convention Center which is just lovely. We were met with a garland of flowers and cool drink. We got our luggage and hurriedly dressed for a show and dinner. The show was about the King who was so in love with his wife that, when she died, he built the Taj Mahal as her tomb. It was pure Bollywood, but entertaining. Then, we went to a South Indian Vegetarian restaurant. Now it is to bed!
Sunday is called a “Day in the Life” by OAT (Overseas Adventure Travels), our tour group. We left the hotel and took a 10 minute drive to a local village, Ram Singh Pura, where we were able to observe daily life in a rural village. Indians divide the country into two parts: modern India (30% of the population) and rural India (70% of the population – mostly farming). We began by visiting the local “Walmart” where everything a villager might need is in a tiny 10x10 stall and accounts are hand written in a ledger book. We then went to the Saini Adarsh Vidhya Mandir, a school which is supported by OAT ($10 of each tour booked through OAT goes to supporting a good cause in various countries around the world). At the school, we spent time with the children and, even though it was Sunday, they were there to greet us with songs and conversation. We then went to a nearby house where we had tea and cookies and could observe life in a local home first hand. From there, it was a short drive to Dastkar, a women’s cooperative founded in 1981 to provide employment opportunities through the teaching and production of traditional Indian handcrafts. The skilled female artisans here create a wide array of goods to sell, including block prints and patchwork cloth. Of course, we all left with something (well, it is a good cause, after all!). After another short ride, we stopped for lunch at an unlikely spot. Amid all the hustle and bustle of the market, there was a large walled field with a beautiful tent set up by OAT for our lunch. From there we traveled to our OAT camp in Rajasthan, on the edge of a small town, Geejgarh, in the heart of rural India. We were greeted with drums, flower garlands, and a cool drink. The rural retreat consists of 14 air-cooled, tent-roof cottages each with a veranda and private bath. There is a separate dining area where a delicious dinner and breakfast were served. After settling in, we climbed aboard our decorated camels and made our way through a nearby village where we could observe the farmers’ daily lives and wave to the many children who cheered us on. This was an unforgettable experience!!! After our ride, we all went to the kitchen for a cooking demonstration where we watched the cook make alu palek (spinach and potatoes) and chappati (which I had made at CCS). From there we had some drinks outside and a dozen men provided entertainment (drums, singing, dancing). Of course, they had us all join in the dancing. We had dinner, and then retired for a peaceful night.
We woke up Monday morning to the sound of rain on the tent – actually a very soothing sound. The rain, I’m sure, made the neighboring farmers extremely happy. This is only the second time in six weeks that we’ve had rain so we aren’t complaining. After breakfast, we had a cricket lesson – this sport is the Indian obsession. Sanjay and the staff demonstrated some of the moves and we all joined in until rain sent us into the dining tent. We then had a friendly male vs. female competition on the art of carrying water jugs on our heads. The day cleared up and we left the camp and visited the nearby step well. Before entering a temple, Hindus bathe and change their clothes. This well was built over 1000 years ago and is an amazing sight. After walking around inside the well, we visited with some local people who were making clay pots – an ancient craft. Two from our group tried their hands at the wheel. We then drove to Agra, stopping for lunch along the way. As always, the varied sights along the way kept us entertained.
We are staying at the Jaypee Palace Hotel and Convention Center which is just lovely. We were met with a garland of flowers and cool drink. We got our luggage and hurriedly dressed for a show and dinner. The show was about the King who was so in love with his wife that, when she died, he built the Taj Mahal as her tomb. It was pure Bollywood, but entertaining. Then, we went to a South Indian Vegetarian restaurant. Now it is to bed!
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| Sambar deer grazing in marsh in Ranthambore Park. |
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| Women cooking our snack of bread when we visited their home. |
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| Carol visits with the women at the cooperative as they make quilts. |
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| Carol rides the camel! |
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| View into the step well |
November 11 - 12, 2010
Over and over again, we’ve seen how India is the land of contrasts. But, when we see something which seems backwards to us, we are reminded that India’s history is 6000 years old yet India has been a democracy for only about 60 years. India continues to make incredible strides forward economically, socially and politically. And, as the literacy rate continues to increase, the progress will rise even faster. When one hears that “only 25%” of the people are financially comfortable, consider that 25% of 1.3 billion people is over 300 million people (more than the population of the entire U.S.). We also hear that “only 25%” of the people are very poor – again more than our entire country’s population.
We began Thursday by visiting the City Palace, a vast complex of courtyards, gardens and buildings. The royal family still occupies part of the palace and the rest is open to the public as the Sawai Man Singh Museum. Immediately south of the City Palace lies the remarkable Jantar Mantar, an observatory begun by Jai Singh in 1728. He built five observatories (we saw one in Delhi) but this one, the fifth, is the largest and best preserved. The most impressive construction is a 27-meter sun dial which can calculate the time to within two seconds. Unfortunately, since it was a cloudy day, we weren’t able to verify this. Another device, composed of six curving marble slabs with a suspended ring in the center, marks the day, time and zodiac symbol. Astrology has always played a key practical role in Indian culture and this device was vital for the calculation of auspicious days for major events like marriage. We then stopped at a carpet and fabric place where they make wool carpets (not quite as time consuming and expensive as silk carpets) and hand-blocked fabric. Although many in our group made purchases, we came out empty handed.
On the way back to the hotel, Harold decided to leave the bus and explore the old city on foot. As usual, he let his camera break the ice with the locals and enjoyed the time wandering and seeing the sights.
We regrouped at 5:00 and drive to the Birla Mandir or Lakshmi Narayan Temple, a Hindu marble edifice built by the fabulously wealthy Birla family, the creators of one of India’s largest industrial corporations. The dazzlingly white marble exterior is embellished with fine carvings and statues featuring an eclectic array of religious figures including Jesus, St. Anthony, Moses, Confucius, Zarathustra and Socrates. We were lucky enough to be there for a “service” which included singing and the sprinkling of water from the Ganges.
After a delicious buffet dinner at the hotel, we went to bed in order to be ready for the 6:30 AM wake-up call.
From 8:00 until 1:00 on Friday, we were in the bus (with several stops), driving from Jaipur through the rural areas of Eastern Rajasthan to Sawai Madhopur City, the gateway to Ranthambore National Park. As always, the sights along the way were fascinating and presented us with tons of photo ops.
We arrived at our hotel in time for a delicious buffet lunch. The Nahararh Ranthambore is an incredible theatrical-looking hotel, built in the style of an old-fashioned Raiput hunting palace and looking every inch the regal retreat. After getting settled in our rooms, we met at 3:30 and boarded a Mitsubishi Canter (open top buses seating twenty people) for our trip through the Ranthambore National Park then a long climb to the ruined tenth-century Ranthambore Fort, towering above the forest canopy from atop a dramatic crag. The story goes that there was a battle between the Hindu rulers and the Moghus in 1569. The Hindus agreed that if they won the battle, a green flag would be raised and if they lost, a red flag would be raised giving the women time to commit suicide before being ravaged by the enemy. Someone compromised the flag raiser. Although the Hindus won the battle, the red flag was raised. The women killed the children, then themselves. When the king returned, expecting a celebration, he was devastated to find that everyone in the fort was dead. He then committed suicide, too. At the top of the fort, there is a 1000 year-old Hindu temple which is a popular pilgrimage site for local Indians. At this temple, they pray to Ganesh, the elephant god, for a new house. Since we already have a house, we said our devotion for Michelle and Ray to find the home of their dreams! We returned to the hotel and were greeted with tea, coffee and cookies. We met with a naturalist who gave us information and a slide show about the Ranthambore National Park. This was followed by another wonderful meal, then bed.
We began Thursday by visiting the City Palace, a vast complex of courtyards, gardens and buildings. The royal family still occupies part of the palace and the rest is open to the public as the Sawai Man Singh Museum. Immediately south of the City Palace lies the remarkable Jantar Mantar, an observatory begun by Jai Singh in 1728. He built five observatories (we saw one in Delhi) but this one, the fifth, is the largest and best preserved. The most impressive construction is a 27-meter sun dial which can calculate the time to within two seconds. Unfortunately, since it was a cloudy day, we weren’t able to verify this. Another device, composed of six curving marble slabs with a suspended ring in the center, marks the day, time and zodiac symbol. Astrology has always played a key practical role in Indian culture and this device was vital for the calculation of auspicious days for major events like marriage. We then stopped at a carpet and fabric place where they make wool carpets (not quite as time consuming and expensive as silk carpets) and hand-blocked fabric. Although many in our group made purchases, we came out empty handed.
On the way back to the hotel, Harold decided to leave the bus and explore the old city on foot. As usual, he let his camera break the ice with the locals and enjoyed the time wandering and seeing the sights.
We regrouped at 5:00 and drive to the Birla Mandir or Lakshmi Narayan Temple, a Hindu marble edifice built by the fabulously wealthy Birla family, the creators of one of India’s largest industrial corporations. The dazzlingly white marble exterior is embellished with fine carvings and statues featuring an eclectic array of religious figures including Jesus, St. Anthony, Moses, Confucius, Zarathustra and Socrates. We were lucky enough to be there for a “service” which included singing and the sprinkling of water from the Ganges.
After a delicious buffet dinner at the hotel, we went to bed in order to be ready for the 6:30 AM wake-up call.
From 8:00 until 1:00 on Friday, we were in the bus (with several stops), driving from Jaipur through the rural areas of Eastern Rajasthan to Sawai Madhopur City, the gateway to Ranthambore National Park. As always, the sights along the way were fascinating and presented us with tons of photo ops.
We arrived at our hotel in time for a delicious buffet lunch. The Nahararh Ranthambore is an incredible theatrical-looking hotel, built in the style of an old-fashioned Raiput hunting palace and looking every inch the regal retreat. After getting settled in our rooms, we met at 3:30 and boarded a Mitsubishi Canter (open top buses seating twenty people) for our trip through the Ranthambore National Park then a long climb to the ruined tenth-century Ranthambore Fort, towering above the forest canopy from atop a dramatic crag. The story goes that there was a battle between the Hindu rulers and the Moghus in 1569. The Hindus agreed that if they won the battle, a green flag would be raised and if they lost, a red flag would be raised giving the women time to commit suicide before being ravaged by the enemy. Someone compromised the flag raiser. Although the Hindus won the battle, the red flag was raised. The women killed the children, then themselves. When the king returned, expecting a celebration, he was devastated to find that everyone in the fort was dead. He then committed suicide, too. At the top of the fort, there is a 1000 year-old Hindu temple which is a popular pilgrimage site for local Indians. At this temple, they pray to Ganesh, the elephant god, for a new house. Since we already have a house, we said our devotion for Michelle and Ray to find the home of their dreams! We returned to the hotel and were greeted with tea, coffee and cookies. We met with a naturalist who gave us information and a slide show about the Ranthambore National Park. This was followed by another wonderful meal, then bed.
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| Our hotel in Ranthembore |
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| Ranthembore Fort |
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| We are ready to roll in the Canter. |
Wednesday, November 10, 2010
November 6- 10, 2010
On Saturday morning, we took one last walk to Hauz Khas market. Unfortunately, my favorite shop was not open, so I could not buy that last minute gift item. After lunch and final packing, we took a taxi to the Suryaa Hotel – a five-star superior hotel in southeast Delhi. We explored the hotel (which has many shops and an amazing fitness center, pool and spa) and the surrounding market area where we had dinner at an eclectic restaurant. Harold had a spicy Indonesian dish and Carol had Italian mushroom ravioli (and, although Grandma wouldn’t have recognized it as such, it was delicious). We bought a bottle of Indian Cabernet Shiraz wine (our first alcohol in five weeks) and spent the rest of the evening watching mediocre TV and sipping our rather tasty wine.
On Sunday morning, we had breakfast at the hotel – a typical buffet with mostly western foods. Then, at 10:30, we met our group. There are 16 of us – five couples, a mother/daughter, two women cousins and two single women. After introductions, Sanjay, our guide for the next two weeks, spoke for over 1.5 hours giving us an orientation about Indian history and the tour. Luckily, after the talk, I asked him how strict the 44 pound limit on the airplanes will be. He said not to worry since it will be a cumulative weight for the group. This was a relief; we had spent considerable time making a bag full of “throw aways” and Harold was planning on filling his pockets with assorted cameras and other heavy objects. We figured they wouldn’t weigh him – just our luggage so he was planning to board the plane at about 250 pounds!! We are delighted because now we can shop!
Our day of touring was somewhat repetitious of places we’ve already visited. We stopped at the India Gate and drove around Imperial Delhi; then we went to Old Delhi, where we visited the Jama Masjid (a 17th Century mosque) and took a bicycle rickshaw ride (which was quite harrowing). We tried to visit Raj Ghat (Ghandi’s cremation site), but it was closed by security as President Obama was visiting there the next day. So, we made a quick stop at Ghandi Smirti (the site of Ghandi’s assassination) then had a wonderful Indian dinner which we ate in the traditional way – with our hands.
On Monday, after breakfast, we visited Qutub Minar (we visited this site on our first day in India) then went to a Kashmir handicraft store where they showed us how they make the Kashmir carpets. Harold was tempted but cooler heads (Carol’s) prevailed and we left without a $1500+ purchase. We then went to the Lotus Temple (again we had visited this on our first day) and a Chinese-Indian lunch.
After a short break, Sanjay took us to a Sikh temple, called Guruwara Damdama Sahib. This temple was not as elaborate as the first Sikh temple we visited with CCS, but it was interesting in its own right. After another short break, we went broke into two groups and each went to an Indian family’s home. The couple we visited lived in an upper middle class house and the dinner was delicious traditional Indian fare.
Although some of our initial Delhi sights are repeats, Sanjay’s explanations have given us a more in-depth understanding. But, we look forward to tomorrow and our trip beyond Delhi. Our next stop is Jaipur, the “Pink City” in Eastern Rajasthan.
We left Delhi at 7:30 Tuesday morning for a day of driving, seeing lots of cows, camels, monkeys and other intriguing sights along the way. We took some short breaks and arrived at Chomu at 2 PM. Here we visited the Chomu Palace for lunch. This is an amazing authentic Rajasthati style structure that has been converted from a 300 year old palace to a restaurant and hotel. The food was excellent. After touring the Palace, we walked around the village of Chomu which was a typical, bustling market town. We boarded the bus again for the last hour of driving and arrived at the hotel in Jaipur at 6:30. We all met in Sanjay’s room for some special Old Monk Indian rum and lots of talk of world politics. It was an excellent day!
We met at 8:00 on Wednesday morning and boarded the bus for a ride through old Jaipur. Although smaller than Delhi (3 million people vs. 15 million people), it is no less chaotic and congested. Stunning hilltop forts and glorious palaces adorn the city telling the tale of a rich royal past. It is called the “pink city” because in 1876, Maharaja Ram Singh had the entire old city painted pink, a color associated with hospitality, to welcome the Prince of Wales. The old city is partially encircled by a crenellated, battle-scarred wall. We stopped first at Hawa Mahal (Palace of the Winds). This five-story building is actually just a façade and was constructed in 1799 to enable ladies of the royal household to watch the processions of the city. From here we traveled to Amber (pronounced “amer”) and drove by jeep to the fort at the top of a rugged hill. Some people rode elephants up the hill but our tour company stopped allowing this when some tourists were trampled recently. The fort was built over 300 years ago and is in amazingly great shape. We had another jeep ride down the hill and back to the bus for a trip to the gem/jewelry making establishment (a must for all tours in any country!). The ride back to the hotel took a long time as traffic was horrendous, but the views from the bus windows were priceless and no one complained. The camel carts, waddling cows and water buffalo, playful monkeys, rampaging rickshaw drivers, hustling businessmen, waving locals and begging street children kept our noses and cameras pressed to the windows. After lunch at the hotel, a group of us went to a local market. Four of the women (including Carol) got henna put on their hands. For dinner, we all went for another home dinner – this time to the home of a 45 year old woman whose husband died several months ago. It was another example of how far India has progressed; not many years ago, becoming a widow would have meant hardship but she is able to carry on, helped by her husband’s family. Her home was quite nice and we had dinner outside on a patio.
On Sunday morning, we had breakfast at the hotel – a typical buffet with mostly western foods. Then, at 10:30, we met our group. There are 16 of us – five couples, a mother/daughter, two women cousins and two single women. After introductions, Sanjay, our guide for the next two weeks, spoke for over 1.5 hours giving us an orientation about Indian history and the tour. Luckily, after the talk, I asked him how strict the 44 pound limit on the airplanes will be. He said not to worry since it will be a cumulative weight for the group. This was a relief; we had spent considerable time making a bag full of “throw aways” and Harold was planning on filling his pockets with assorted cameras and other heavy objects. We figured they wouldn’t weigh him – just our luggage so he was planning to board the plane at about 250 pounds!! We are delighted because now we can shop!
Our day of touring was somewhat repetitious of places we’ve already visited. We stopped at the India Gate and drove around Imperial Delhi; then we went to Old Delhi, where we visited the Jama Masjid (a 17th Century mosque) and took a bicycle rickshaw ride (which was quite harrowing). We tried to visit Raj Ghat (Ghandi’s cremation site), but it was closed by security as President Obama was visiting there the next day. So, we made a quick stop at Ghandi Smirti (the site of Ghandi’s assassination) then had a wonderful Indian dinner which we ate in the traditional way – with our hands.
On Monday, after breakfast, we visited Qutub Minar (we visited this site on our first day in India) then went to a Kashmir handicraft store where they showed us how they make the Kashmir carpets. Harold was tempted but cooler heads (Carol’s) prevailed and we left without a $1500+ purchase. We then went to the Lotus Temple (again we had visited this on our first day) and a Chinese-Indian lunch.
After a short break, Sanjay took us to a Sikh temple, called Guruwara Damdama Sahib. This temple was not as elaborate as the first Sikh temple we visited with CCS, but it was interesting in its own right. After another short break, we went broke into two groups and each went to an Indian family’s home. The couple we visited lived in an upper middle class house and the dinner was delicious traditional Indian fare.
Although some of our initial Delhi sights are repeats, Sanjay’s explanations have given us a more in-depth understanding. But, we look forward to tomorrow and our trip beyond Delhi. Our next stop is Jaipur, the “Pink City” in Eastern Rajasthan.
We left Delhi at 7:30 Tuesday morning for a day of driving, seeing lots of cows, camels, monkeys and other intriguing sights along the way. We took some short breaks and arrived at Chomu at 2 PM. Here we visited the Chomu Palace for lunch. This is an amazing authentic Rajasthati style structure that has been converted from a 300 year old palace to a restaurant and hotel. The food was excellent. After touring the Palace, we walked around the village of Chomu which was a typical, bustling market town. We boarded the bus again for the last hour of driving and arrived at the hotel in Jaipur at 6:30. We all met in Sanjay’s room for some special Old Monk Indian rum and lots of talk of world politics. It was an excellent day!
We met at 8:00 on Wednesday morning and boarded the bus for a ride through old Jaipur. Although smaller than Delhi (3 million people vs. 15 million people), it is no less chaotic and congested. Stunning hilltop forts and glorious palaces adorn the city telling the tale of a rich royal past. It is called the “pink city” because in 1876, Maharaja Ram Singh had the entire old city painted pink, a color associated with hospitality, to welcome the Prince of Wales. The old city is partially encircled by a crenellated, battle-scarred wall. We stopped first at Hawa Mahal (Palace of the Winds). This five-story building is actually just a façade and was constructed in 1799 to enable ladies of the royal household to watch the processions of the city. From here we traveled to Amber (pronounced “amer”) and drove by jeep to the fort at the top of a rugged hill. Some people rode elephants up the hill but our tour company stopped allowing this when some tourists were trampled recently. The fort was built over 300 years ago and is in amazingly great shape. We had another jeep ride down the hill and back to the bus for a trip to the gem/jewelry making establishment (a must for all tours in any country!). The ride back to the hotel took a long time as traffic was horrendous, but the views from the bus windows were priceless and no one complained. The camel carts, waddling cows and water buffalo, playful monkeys, rampaging rickshaw drivers, hustling businessmen, waving locals and begging street children kept our noses and cameras pressed to the windows. After lunch at the hotel, a group of us went to a local market. Four of the women (including Carol) got henna put on their hands. For dinner, we all went for another home dinner – this time to the home of a 45 year old woman whose husband died several months ago. It was another example of how far India has progressed; not many years ago, becoming a widow would have meant hardship but she is able to carry on, helped by her husband’s family. Her home was quite nice and we had dinner outside on a patio.
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| Bicycle rickshaw in Old Delhi |
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| Harold falls in love with the Kashmir silk carpet. |
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| Standing in front of the Chomu Palace where we had lunch. |
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| Inside the Sikh Temple |
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| A group photo from the first home hosted dinner |
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| A camel cart we saw along the way. |
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| Four of us get henna'ed hands |
Friday, November 5, 2010
November 5, 2010
Happy Diwali! We woke early and decided to take a walk around the area. What a pleasure; there was almost no traffic. We walked through several parks then a small village where the markets were open and ready for business. At 10:30, we met all the CCS staff and those volunteers who stayed in town for the weekend for another pooja (honoring the gods and goddesses). This was followed by sampling all the sweets that were brought as offerings.
After lunch, we did some half-hearted packing just to see how heavy our suitcases are now. For those who think we are bringing back lots of wonderful gifts, it isn’t happening. We have a 44 lb. one-suitcase limit for the domestic flights we are taking and we already exceed this. We’re hoping that we can use up lots of shampoo, vitamins and toothpaste and that will bring the weight down to the limit.
After dinner, Dr. Jafa (he lives in the complex and was one of our guest speakers) and his wife invited the two of us over for cognac and some appetizers. They are both very well educated and have two daughters living in Manhattan. They love the US and we had an interesting conversation on US and Indian politics.
The apartment complex is amazing; it is Christmas times ten. All the apartments have colored lights, but tonight many, many lit candles were added everywhere. In addition, the fireworks and firecrackers are incredible. We met the CCS group at 6:00 and spent about an hour with sparklers and various fireworks. It is currently about 10:30 PM and the noise is deafening and the smoke outside is thick. I wonder when we’ll be able to get to sleep.
It is difficult to believe that this is our last night in this flat; it has been our home away from home for five weeks. We’ll be sad to leave but look forward to the next part of the adventure.
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| We saw this stall selling sweets at the market on Diwali morning. The sweets are used for offerings but then you get to eat them. |
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| The pooja led by three CCS staff members. |
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| This is a photo of the bulletin boards in our room. Michelle gave us all these "miss you" cards (and we have more for the rest of the trip). |
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| Candles in front of our neighbor's house - lighting the way for Lord Rama's return. |
Thursday, November 4, 2010
November 4, 2010
We can’t believe it – today was the last day of our placement. Because of our leaving and because of Diwali, there was a lot to celebrate. They showered us with gifts (most of which we may try to re-gift as we can’t carry the extra weight in our suitcases). All the staff went into the office where we performed a pooja (worshipping by praying and singing honoring many gods and goddesses). Last night, we bought and wrapped gifts for some of the staff and today we delivered them. It was so difficult to say good-bye to the kids; however, we are so happy that they've made so much progress and that the new CCS volunteers overlapped with us because we were able to get them off and running immediately. After lunch, we had our final feedback session with the CCS staff. Since it is a long weekend (everything is closed for Diwali tomorrow), many of the volunteers have left for short trips outside of Delhi. So we are waiting for our Thursday night dinner - the best of the week. It will be tandori chicken, tandori paneer and naan - everyone's favorite meal!!
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| Shopping for Diwali gifts in the market. |
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| We pose with some of the Earth Saviours staff. |
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| Ravi gives us gifts, flowers and a certificate of appreciation. |
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| Performing the pooja |
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| We pose with Ravi (the founder of Earth Saviours) and his mother. |
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