We’re hhoooommmmeeee.
After a long, but uneventful flight, we landed at BWI at 9:00 AM on Sunday morning. Michelle picked us up at the airport. The best part is that she brought milk (for our cappuccino), cookies and brownies with her. Thanks, Michelle!!!!
We are happy to be home, but enjoyed every minute of our adventure. Where, next????
Sunday, November 28, 2010
November 26 - 27, 2010
Our flight to Mumbai (Bombay) was on time and uneventful. We were met at the airport by the OAT representative who took us to the “Le Royal Meridien” Hotel – probably the most high class place we’ve stayed on the entire trip. Since the other five in our group left for the airport at 11:00 PM, they didn’t even get a chance to sleep in the beds; however, since we don’t leave until Saturday night, we’ll enjoy our night of luxury. We quickly re-grouped and boarded a full-sized bus (which seemed a little overkill for only seven of us!) for a three hour tour of Mumbai. It is an extremely interesting city – a mix of the rich and poor, slums and penthouses, new and ancient with plenty of pollution and traffic thrown in. Our local guide was very well informed and kept up a steady stream of commentary during the ride. We made a few stops but mostly just took in the sights from the bus. We saw evidence of heightened security as today was 26/11, the second anniversary of the Mumbai terrorist attack. Tara, Susan, Harold and I met in the bar for a few last “happy hour” Kingfisher beers and a pizza, and then we were off to bed.
Our last day and it was a perfect way to end a marvelous two months in “Incredible !ndia”. We left the hotel by auto rickshaw at 8:00 and went to the train station. We boarded the fast train for Mumbai Central– a 40 minute ride. The train was crowded and, although we weren’t hanging out the door, we were only one back from the open door – just like all the movies showing trains in India. We walked from the train station to the Gateway of India and caught a ferry for Elephanto Island – a one hour ride and great way to see Mumbai from the Arabian Sea. On the island is a labyrinth of cave-temples carved into basalt rock. The main Shiva-dedicated temple is a latticework of courtyards, halls, pillars and shrines. The most impressive sight is a 6 meter tall statue depicting the three faces of Shiva as destroyer, creator and preserver of the universe. The temples were created between 450 and 750 AD. On our return to the city, we had a last Indian meal (veg and non-veg kabobs with Kingfisher beer and garlic naan). We then did a walking tour around the center of the city. We returned to the hotel by train, showered and changed and took a taxi to the airport. We are through security and waiting for our plane.
Since we are now officially off the OAT tour, I will summarize our experience. The first two weeks were absolutely fantastic. There were so many amazing sights and our guide, Sanjay, was the absolute BEST! Although the houseboat was thoroughly enjoyable, some of the extension tour to the south was a little bit of a letdown. Perhaps it was the fact that Cochin did not have many exciting sights, perhaps it was the fact that our guide, George, lacked the spark to make the city interesting, perhaps it was the fact that two of our afternoons were free to relax at the hotel and we are not used to relaxing or perhaps it was the fact that we were all a little tired of traveling and ready to go home. But, all in all, I would highly recommend this trip (especially the first two weeks) to anyone with a yearning to learn more about the fascinating country, India.
Our last day and it was a perfect way to end a marvelous two months in “Incredible !ndia”. We left the hotel by auto rickshaw at 8:00 and went to the train station. We boarded the fast train for Mumbai Central– a 40 minute ride. The train was crowded and, although we weren’t hanging out the door, we were only one back from the open door – just like all the movies showing trains in India. We walked from the train station to the Gateway of India and caught a ferry for Elephanto Island – a one hour ride and great way to see Mumbai from the Arabian Sea. On the island is a labyrinth of cave-temples carved into basalt rock. The main Shiva-dedicated temple is a latticework of courtyards, halls, pillars and shrines. The most impressive sight is a 6 meter tall statue depicting the three faces of Shiva as destroyer, creator and preserver of the universe. The temples were created between 450 and 750 AD. On our return to the city, we had a last Indian meal (veg and non-veg kabobs with Kingfisher beer and garlic naan). We then did a walking tour around the center of the city. We returned to the hotel by train, showered and changed and took a taxi to the airport. We are through security and waiting for our plane.
Since we are now officially off the OAT tour, I will summarize our experience. The first two weeks were absolutely fantastic. There were so many amazing sights and our guide, Sanjay, was the absolute BEST! Although the houseboat was thoroughly enjoyable, some of the extension tour to the south was a little bit of a letdown. Perhaps it was the fact that Cochin did not have many exciting sights, perhaps it was the fact that our guide, George, lacked the spark to make the city interesting, perhaps it was the fact that two of our afternoons were free to relax at the hotel and we are not used to relaxing or perhaps it was the fact that we were all a little tired of traveling and ready to go home. But, all in all, I would highly recommend this trip (especially the first two weeks) to anyone with a yearning to learn more about the fascinating country, India.
 |
| Mumbai - Left, Taj Mahal Hotel where President Obama stayed And Right, Gateway of India |
 |
| Mumbai slums |
 |
| Where they wash and dry laundry |
 |
| We stopped and watched the boys playing cricket |
November 24 - 25, 2010
An abundance of rain in the mountains caused extremely high waters in the waterways. As we were sailing back to our starting point on Wednesday morning, we could see that many home and fields were flooded or close to being flooded (which would ruin the rice crop). We left the boat at 9:00 AM and walked without shoes through puddles and ankle high water to get to the bus. We made a stop at a coir factory where the women take fibers from the outside of the coconut, make rope, sometimes dye it, then the men weave it into rugs, door mats, etc.
After a 1.5 hour bus ride, we arrived back in Cochin where one can see a 16th century Synagogue, ancient mosques, Hindu temples, Christian churches and many Portuguese, Dutch and English buildings. We stopped at St. Francis Church which is India’s oldest European church constructed in 1503 by the Portuguese Franciscan friars. Vasco da Gama, who died in Cochin in 1524, was buried on this spot. We then walked along the beach where we saw many giant Chinese fishing nets and fishermen selling their catches and offering to cook and serve us. We declined and all went to a restaurant for a mediocre lunch – we are spoiled by the wonderful meals served on our houseboat. We then went to our hotel and had a rest before meeting at 5:15 for a traditional Keralan show. The art form of Kathakali has elements that stem from 2nd-century temple rituals. The Kathakali performance is the dramatized presentation of a play, usually based on the Hindu epics. Drummers and singers accompany the actors who tell a story through their hand gestures and facial expressions. When we arrived at the small theater, we went up to the second level where we watched three actors (only men perform in these shows) applying their makeup. We then went downstairs to watch the show, which was extremely interesting and entertaining. It was divided into two parts: the first was a demonstration of the various facial and body movements to reflect the nine emotions and the second was an enactment of a story while the drum played and an actor sang. After the show, we went to the Grand Hotel for one of the best dinners we’ve had on the trip which included seafood bisque, fish curry, and many other Keralan delicacies topped off by gulab jamum and ice cream.
After a huge breakfast buffet at the hotel, we went back to the old part of Cochin and first visited Mattancherry Palace built by the Portuguese in 1555 and presented to the king of Cochin as a gesture of goodwill (after the Portuguese had destroyed much of Cochin – seems only fair!). The star attraction here is the astonishingly preserved Hindu murals depicting the story of Rama. We next visited the Pardesi Synagogue and Jew Town, a bustling port area and center of the spice trade. Scores of small firms huddle together in old, dilapidated buildings and the air is filled with the aromas of ginger, cardamom, cumin, turmeric and cloves. We stopped at a women’s cooperative where Harold bought a lungi (we’ll leave the details until you see him in it). Finally, we went to the imposing Catholic Santa Cruz Basilica which was originally built on the site in 1506. After lunch in a nearby hotel restaurant, we returned for an afternoon rest before meeting up at 5:00 for a sunset cruise in the working Cochin harbor. From there, we went for our third home hosted dinner. Miriam and her daughter served the dinner and we heard all about the daughter’s upcoming wedding. As is customary in India, her mother found a suitable boy (same religion, same status) and contacted his parents. When both sets of parents approved the match, the couple met for the first time two months ago. At this point they had the option of refusing to proceed, but they agreed, got engaged, they will be married on January 29th. Although there are some love marriages in India, in most instances, it seems that arranged marriages are still the norm. We returned to the hotel and are getting ready for bed and a 5:00 AM wake-up call. Oh, and P.S. Happy Thanksgiving to everyone at home!
After a 1.5 hour bus ride, we arrived back in Cochin where one can see a 16th century Synagogue, ancient mosques, Hindu temples, Christian churches and many Portuguese, Dutch and English buildings. We stopped at St. Francis Church which is India’s oldest European church constructed in 1503 by the Portuguese Franciscan friars. Vasco da Gama, who died in Cochin in 1524, was buried on this spot. We then walked along the beach where we saw many giant Chinese fishing nets and fishermen selling their catches and offering to cook and serve us. We declined and all went to a restaurant for a mediocre lunch – we are spoiled by the wonderful meals served on our houseboat. We then went to our hotel and had a rest before meeting at 5:15 for a traditional Keralan show. The art form of Kathakali has elements that stem from 2nd-century temple rituals. The Kathakali performance is the dramatized presentation of a play, usually based on the Hindu epics. Drummers and singers accompany the actors who tell a story through their hand gestures and facial expressions. When we arrived at the small theater, we went up to the second level where we watched three actors (only men perform in these shows) applying their makeup. We then went downstairs to watch the show, which was extremely interesting and entertaining. It was divided into two parts: the first was a demonstration of the various facial and body movements to reflect the nine emotions and the second was an enactment of a story while the drum played and an actor sang. After the show, we went to the Grand Hotel for one of the best dinners we’ve had on the trip which included seafood bisque, fish curry, and many other Keralan delicacies topped off by gulab jamum and ice cream.
After a huge breakfast buffet at the hotel, we went back to the old part of Cochin and first visited Mattancherry Palace built by the Portuguese in 1555 and presented to the king of Cochin as a gesture of goodwill (after the Portuguese had destroyed much of Cochin – seems only fair!). The star attraction here is the astonishingly preserved Hindu murals depicting the story of Rama. We next visited the Pardesi Synagogue and Jew Town, a bustling port area and center of the spice trade. Scores of small firms huddle together in old, dilapidated buildings and the air is filled with the aromas of ginger, cardamom, cumin, turmeric and cloves. We stopped at a women’s cooperative where Harold bought a lungi (we’ll leave the details until you see him in it). Finally, we went to the imposing Catholic Santa Cruz Basilica which was originally built on the site in 1506. After lunch in a nearby hotel restaurant, we returned for an afternoon rest before meeting up at 5:00 for a sunset cruise in the working Cochin harbor. From there, we went for our third home hosted dinner. Miriam and her daughter served the dinner and we heard all about the daughter’s upcoming wedding. As is customary in India, her mother found a suitable boy (same religion, same status) and contacted his parents. When both sets of parents approved the match, the couple met for the first time two months ago. At this point they had the option of refusing to proceed, but they agreed, got engaged, they will be married on January 29th. Although there are some love marriages in India, in most instances, it seems that arranged marriages are still the norm. We returned to the hotel and are getting ready for bed and a 5:00 AM wake-up call. Oh, and P.S. Happy Thanksgiving to everyone at home!
 |
| The rising waters flood some houses. |
 |
| Our walk through the puddles from the boat to the bus. |
 |
| Chinese fishing nets in Cochin |
 |
| The actors apply their makeup |
 |
| The performance |
Wednesday, November 24, 2010
November 21 – 23, 2010
After breakfast, the seven of us taking the OAT extension to South India went to the airport and took the 3.5 hour flight to Cochin (now Kochi). We were met by the OAT guide, George, and drove 2.5 hours by bus to Allepey, the starting point of our adventure.
We boarded two kettuvallams (houseboat designed like a traditional rice barge) which were fully equipped with kitchens, two bedrooms each (four of us slept on one, three on the other) and bathrooms with sink, toilet and shower. At the front of one boat was our dining room and the other had a seating area. The houseboats are made from all natural fibers – bamboo, coconut rope, betel nut beams, and wild pineapple mats on the wall, all sealed with burnt cashew nut oil. We got settled in our rooms, and then met in the dining room for a delicious dinner.
Harold had a bad night – the “Ganges Revenge” caught up with him. He spent all day Monday, resting and eating only rice. (But, by Tuesday, he was back to normal). The rest of us had a delicious breakfast (fresh omelets and rice noodles topped with coconut juice and cinnamon), and then our boats set off and we meandered along the lovely backwaters. There is a 900 km network of waterways that fringe the coast and trickle far inland. As Monday and Tuesday were incredibly relaxing but similar days, I’ll summarize both days. Although we slept on separate boats, we all spent the days together on one boat. We stopped several times each day to walk through small villages and talk to the villagers and experience life in rural south India. It is fascinating to see the shop keepers, barbers, fishermen, school children, rice farmers working in the fields and women cleaning their clothes in the river. Everyone, especially the children, was extremely friendly and wanted to know our names and where we came from, asked to have their photos taken and asked for pens (this request was universal whenever we met kids throughout India). This area couldn’t be more different from the hustle and bustle of Delhi. Yet again, we see stark contrasts in the life of a person living in India. Kerala is peaceful and beautiful and we have thoroughly enjoyed our time on the river as we pass impossibly green rice fields, and banana, mango and coconut trees.
The boat crew was fantastic – always seeing to it that there is cold water, hot chai, juice and snacks (such as fried plantains, topped with coconut, cardamom and sugar or chilies dipped in chickpea batter and deep fried) and the meals are wonderful (fish, chicken, okra, potatoes, carrots, beans, lentils, rice, etc all seasoned with the local spices as well as at least five different kinds of homemade breads). The cooks invited us into the galley several times so that we could watch and participate in the food preparation. Tuesday’s lunch was exceptional: we had a huge banana leaf for a plate, and there was fresh fish and 18 different sides plus a wonderful rice dessert. Although we all enjoyed the food in north India, we think the food in the south is equally delicious (and maybe a tad more so)!
The primary language in Kerala is Malayalam which sounds and looks like nothing we’ve ever encountered before. Some of the people we’ve met speak English but it seems that Hindi is a language which must be studied in school but is not practically used here at all. Another difference between the north and south is religion. Here there are many Christians (almost all are Syrian Catholic or Latin Catholic). This is the result of the many European missionaries that came to India. Some of the villages we visited: Punnamadam, Kanjippadam, Thoffappally, Thakazhy, Chambakualm, and Vembanad Lake.
Tara, the youngest member of our group and a wonderful yoga teacher, had some of us on the floor helping us with our poses. Then, it was time for our last dinner on the boat. George, our OAT guide, brought out the boat staff and helped translate as we found out about their lives. Now we are getting ready for showers and bed as we will be “setting sail” at 7:45 tomorrow morning.
We boarded two kettuvallams (houseboat designed like a traditional rice barge) which were fully equipped with kitchens, two bedrooms each (four of us slept on one, three on the other) and bathrooms with sink, toilet and shower. At the front of one boat was our dining room and the other had a seating area. The houseboats are made from all natural fibers – bamboo, coconut rope, betel nut beams, and wild pineapple mats on the wall, all sealed with burnt cashew nut oil. We got settled in our rooms, and then met in the dining room for a delicious dinner.
Harold had a bad night – the “Ganges Revenge” caught up with him. He spent all day Monday, resting and eating only rice. (But, by Tuesday, he was back to normal). The rest of us had a delicious breakfast (fresh omelets and rice noodles topped with coconut juice and cinnamon), and then our boats set off and we meandered along the lovely backwaters. There is a 900 km network of waterways that fringe the coast and trickle far inland. As Monday and Tuesday were incredibly relaxing but similar days, I’ll summarize both days. Although we slept on separate boats, we all spent the days together on one boat. We stopped several times each day to walk through small villages and talk to the villagers and experience life in rural south India. It is fascinating to see the shop keepers, barbers, fishermen, school children, rice farmers working in the fields and women cleaning their clothes in the river. Everyone, especially the children, was extremely friendly and wanted to know our names and where we came from, asked to have their photos taken and asked for pens (this request was universal whenever we met kids throughout India). This area couldn’t be more different from the hustle and bustle of Delhi. Yet again, we see stark contrasts in the life of a person living in India. Kerala is peaceful and beautiful and we have thoroughly enjoyed our time on the river as we pass impossibly green rice fields, and banana, mango and coconut trees.
The boat crew was fantastic – always seeing to it that there is cold water, hot chai, juice and snacks (such as fried plantains, topped with coconut, cardamom and sugar or chilies dipped in chickpea batter and deep fried) and the meals are wonderful (fish, chicken, okra, potatoes, carrots, beans, lentils, rice, etc all seasoned with the local spices as well as at least five different kinds of homemade breads). The cooks invited us into the galley several times so that we could watch and participate in the food preparation. Tuesday’s lunch was exceptional: we had a huge banana leaf for a plate, and there was fresh fish and 18 different sides plus a wonderful rice dessert. Although we all enjoyed the food in north India, we think the food in the south is equally delicious (and maybe a tad more so)!
The primary language in Kerala is Malayalam which sounds and looks like nothing we’ve ever encountered before. Some of the people we’ve met speak English but it seems that Hindi is a language which must be studied in school but is not practically used here at all. Another difference between the north and south is religion. Here there are many Christians (almost all are Syrian Catholic or Latin Catholic). This is the result of the many European missionaries that came to India. Some of the villages we visited: Punnamadam, Kanjippadam, Thoffappally, Thakazhy, Chambakualm, and Vembanad Lake.
Tara, the youngest member of our group and a wonderful yoga teacher, had some of us on the floor helping us with our poses. Then, it was time for our last dinner on the boat. George, our OAT guide, brought out the boat staff and helped translate as we found out about their lives. Now we are getting ready for showers and bed as we will be “setting sail” at 7:45 tomorrow morning.
 |
| Our houseboat |
 |
| Total relaxation on the boat |
 |
| Our wonderful thali lunch served by the staff |
 |
| Harold models a dhoti - the traditional dress of men in Kerala |
 |
| Village women we met on our walk - four generations. The women in red is getting married on Friday. |
 |
| Sunset on the waterway |
November 20, 2010
On Saturday morning, we visited the Bharat Mata Temple (Mother India Temple). It was built in 1918 and is a novel temple, dedicated to Mother India, which instead of the customary Gods and Goddesses, houses a perfect relief map (with a scale of 1 inch = 1.1 miles) carved on marble of the Indian subcontinent. We then walked around a large vegetable market outside the gates.
We returned to the hotel to complete our packing and get ready for a 12:30 departure. When I was packing up, I came across bottle of Ganges River water which I had collected the previous day. I had put the murky, heavy polluted water in a plastic water bottle and removed the label so it was easy to identify. As I handled the bottle, I noticed that it was only half full. I asked Harold what happened to the water. He blanched and said he got thirsty while packing and thought it was clean water and drank it. We panicked! He first purged himself, then immediately started taking cipro (antibiotics). Some of the others of our group gave him some helpful remedies. All we can do is wait and see.
We drove to the airport and had an uneventful one-hour flight back to Gurgaon, on the outskirts of south Delhi. This is a newly built city which houses the call centers of many large foreign companies.
We all met in the bar area at the hotel for drinks and snacks and a final goodbye to Sanjay and those departing. It was a great group of people and I hope we’ll stay in touch. We will surely miss Sanjay who has probably spoiled us for any other OAT tour guide. His enthusiasm for and knowledge of India were incredible. So, after our hugs and farewells, we got ready for our last night’s sleep in northern India. Tomorrow, it is off to the south.
We returned to the hotel to complete our packing and get ready for a 12:30 departure. When I was packing up, I came across bottle of Ganges River water which I had collected the previous day. I had put the murky, heavy polluted water in a plastic water bottle and removed the label so it was easy to identify. As I handled the bottle, I noticed that it was only half full. I asked Harold what happened to the water. He blanched and said he got thirsty while packing and thought it was clean water and drank it. We panicked! He first purged himself, then immediately started taking cipro (antibiotics). Some of the others of our group gave him some helpful remedies. All we can do is wait and see.
We drove to the airport and had an uneventful one-hour flight back to Gurgaon, on the outskirts of south Delhi. This is a newly built city which houses the call centers of many large foreign companies.
We all met in the bar area at the hotel for drinks and snacks and a final goodbye to Sanjay and those departing. It was a great group of people and I hope we’ll stay in touch. We will surely miss Sanjay who has probably spoiled us for any other OAT tour guide. His enthusiasm for and knowledge of India were incredible. So, after our hugs and farewells, we got ready for our last night’s sleep in northern India. Tomorrow, it is off to the south.
 |
| Marble relief map of Mother India |
 |
| Cow enjoys the vegetable market |
 |
| Selling his vegetables |
Friday, November 19, 2010
November 19, 2010
Every time I decide that an experience is the highlight of our trip, something else more amazing comes along. And Friday morning, so far, is number one on the list. Our wakeup call was at 5 AM and we were rolling in the bus by 5:30 to return to the spot of the previous night. Whereas the action Thursday night was by the priests, in the morning, all activity is by the local people and pilgrims to the city. The Ganges River provides millions of Indians an important link to their spirituality. (A side note: the Hindus believe that there are four mothers –their Birth Mother, Mother Cow, Mother Ganges and Mother India.) Every day about 60,000 people go down to the Varanasi ghats to take a holy dip, wash clothes, and spread ashes in the river (for the dead who had been cremated elsewhere). We again took the rowing boat and passed the pilgrims bathing in the river and offering their sun salutations. We disembarked for a while to walk around and to experience the atmosphere; it was dizzying. There was so much activity, it was difficult to know where to look first. Perhaps, just sitting on a high step and observing was the best way to soak it all in. We collected a little Ganges water to bring home as a few drops ensure purity of body and soul. We rowed back to the starting point and walked through the labyrinth of alleys which date back to 1400 BC. Our bus returned to the hotel at 8:30 where we had breakfast and a short break.
We met again at 10:00 for a visit to the city of Sarnath. In the 6th century BC, Buddha came to Sarnath to preach his message after he achieved enlightenment at Bodhgaya. He preached his famous first sermon in Sarnath to a handful of followers. In the 3rd century BC, King Ashoka had magnificent stupas and monasteries erected as well as an engraved pillar which he used to spread the word of Buddhism. In 640 AD there were 1500 monks living in large monasteries; however, Buddhism went into decline and when the Muslim invaders destroyed most of the city’s buildings, Sarnath disappeared altogether. It was rediscovered when the British archaeologists started excavations and Sarnath regained some of its past glory. Today, the city is one of the four important sites on the Buddist circuit. We visited the Buddhist temple and museum there.
On our way back to the hotel, we stopped at a place where they make silk brocade, an ancient art in Varanasi. The current owner is 7th generation. The pieces were beautiful and we bought one to use as a wall hanging.
The group met again in a hotel conference room at 5:00 for an hour of yoga. Like the yoga we did with CCS, it is different from the “American” yoga in that it concentrates more on your inner self than on cardio exercise. We ended with some meditation which was extremely relaxing. At 6:30 the group met with Sanjay for a recap of the entire two week trip. As a treat, he provided wine and snacks. And, as an extra special treat, he had a female hotel staff member come with 11 6-meter lengths of fabric and outfitted all the females in saris. We then all got a bhindi (dot on the forehead). There was much (drunken) laughter and joy as we approach the end of our trip (although seven of us are extending our trip and flying to the south of India). From there, we went to dinner (with yet more wine) where we had a wonderful kabob dinner. So, we are extremely full now and ready for bed!
We met again at 10:00 for a visit to the city of Sarnath. In the 6th century BC, Buddha came to Sarnath to preach his message after he achieved enlightenment at Bodhgaya. He preached his famous first sermon in Sarnath to a handful of followers. In the 3rd century BC, King Ashoka had magnificent stupas and monasteries erected as well as an engraved pillar which he used to spread the word of Buddhism. In 640 AD there were 1500 monks living in large monasteries; however, Buddhism went into decline and when the Muslim invaders destroyed most of the city’s buildings, Sarnath disappeared altogether. It was rediscovered when the British archaeologists started excavations and Sarnath regained some of its past glory. Today, the city is one of the four important sites on the Buddist circuit. We visited the Buddhist temple and museum there.
On our way back to the hotel, we stopped at a place where they make silk brocade, an ancient art in Varanasi. The current owner is 7th generation. The pieces were beautiful and we bought one to use as a wall hanging.
The group met again in a hotel conference room at 5:00 for an hour of yoga. Like the yoga we did with CCS, it is different from the “American” yoga in that it concentrates more on your inner self than on cardio exercise. We ended with some meditation which was extremely relaxing. At 6:30 the group met with Sanjay for a recap of the entire two week trip. As a treat, he provided wine and snacks. And, as an extra special treat, he had a female hotel staff member come with 11 6-meter lengths of fabric and outfitted all the females in saris. We then all got a bhindi (dot on the forehead). There was much (drunken) laughter and joy as we approach the end of our trip (although seven of us are extending our trip and flying to the south of India). From there, we went to dinner (with yet more wine) where we had a wonderful kabob dinner. So, we are extremely full now and ready for bed!
 |
| Sunrise on the Ganges River. |
 |
| Some morning activity on the Ganges. |
 |
| Bathing and offering prayers in the river. |
 |
| The Buddhist temple in Sarnath. |
 |
| Weaving the silk brocade |
 |
| Decked out in our beautiful saris. |
November 17 - 18, 2010
Wednesday was a day of travel – from Agra to Khajuraho. We began the journey by train from Agra to Jhansi; this was a 2.5 hour ride. Some facts about the India railway which is the largest in the world: they employ 1.2 million people, 15 million people per day use the railway, it is the cheapest in the world ($.04/km) there are 105,000 km of rail, it is over 100 years old and it is Government run with its own budget. The train was very comfortable, quite comparable to Amtrak and they even gave each person a big bottle of water and snack. We were in an air-conditioned, reserved-seat train; however, we did see trains with no windows and lots of people dangling out the door. Many used to ride on the roof, but, because there are electric lines above now, not so many do this anymore. From the train station, we boarded a bus for a long ride to Khajuraho stopping for lunch at a pleasant old palace with a walk around the market. We arrived at the Radisson Hotel about 5:00, met in Sanjay’s room for another rum and coke party, then headed to dinner at 8:15.
On Thursday after breakfast, we met up with another guide who took us to view some of the Hindu and Jain temples and erotic sculptures in Khajuraho. The Kamasutra carvings that swath the temples are among the finest temple art in the world. Around the temples are bands of exceedingly artistic stonework showing a storyboard of life a millennium ago – gods, goddesses, warriors, musicians, real and mythological animals. Two elements appear repeatedly – women and sex. It was an incredible experience and we only wished we had had more time to look closely at the art.
We returned to the hotel about 12:30, packed our suitcases and left for the airport for the 50-minute flight to Varanasi. We got to another Radisson Hotel but had no time to go to our rooms. We hurriedly boarded our bus for an unbelievable experience. Varanasi is to Hindus what Mecca is to Muslims. Varanasi has been the center for learning and civilization for over 2000 years, claims to be one of the oldest living cities in the world and is the holiest city in India. It is the city of Shiva where Hindu pilgrims come to wash away a lifetime of sins in the Ganges River or to cremate their loved ones. Varanasi has always been an auspicious place to die since expiring here offers moksha (liberation from the cycle of birth and death). Our bus could only take us part of the way, we then boarded bicycle rickshaws where we had another harrowing experience darting through the traffic, people and animals. The last 10 minutes was by foot and we were, as usual, accosted by people selling their wares and occasionally beggars. Spiritual life in Varanasi revolves around the 80 ghats, the long string of bathing steps leading down to the river on the western bank of the Ganges. We boarded a rowing boat and were taken first to the site where cremations were taking place. There were 10 fires burning corpses with many lined up to be cremated. We then went to a place to watch the aarti ceremony which is performed by the Hindu priests at sunset 365 days/year in thanksgiving to the Ganges. To return to the hotel, we reversed the process: walk, rickshaw and bus. By this time, we were all starving so we went to the lounge at the hotel for beer, pizza, and chocolate mud pie!
On Thursday after breakfast, we met up with another guide who took us to view some of the Hindu and Jain temples and erotic sculptures in Khajuraho. The Kamasutra carvings that swath the temples are among the finest temple art in the world. Around the temples are bands of exceedingly artistic stonework showing a storyboard of life a millennium ago – gods, goddesses, warriors, musicians, real and mythological animals. Two elements appear repeatedly – women and sex. It was an incredible experience and we only wished we had had more time to look closely at the art.
We returned to the hotel about 12:30, packed our suitcases and left for the airport for the 50-minute flight to Varanasi. We got to another Radisson Hotel but had no time to go to our rooms. We hurriedly boarded our bus for an unbelievable experience. Varanasi is to Hindus what Mecca is to Muslims. Varanasi has been the center for learning and civilization for over 2000 years, claims to be one of the oldest living cities in the world and is the holiest city in India. It is the city of Shiva where Hindu pilgrims come to wash away a lifetime of sins in the Ganges River or to cremate their loved ones. Varanasi has always been an auspicious place to die since expiring here offers moksha (liberation from the cycle of birth and death). Our bus could only take us part of the way, we then boarded bicycle rickshaws where we had another harrowing experience darting through the traffic, people and animals. The last 10 minutes was by foot and we were, as usual, accosted by people selling their wares and occasionally beggars. Spiritual life in Varanasi revolves around the 80 ghats, the long string of bathing steps leading down to the river on the western bank of the Ganges. We boarded a rowing boat and were taken first to the site where cremations were taking place. There were 10 fires burning corpses with many lined up to be cremated. We then went to a place to watch the aarti ceremony which is performed by the Hindu priests at sunset 365 days/year in thanksgiving to the Ganges. To return to the hotel, we reversed the process: walk, rickshaw and bus. By this time, we were all starving so we went to the lounge at the hotel for beer, pizza, and chocolate mud pie!
 |
| Some of the erotic art at the Hindu temple. |
 |
| We are standing in front of one of the many Hindu temples in Khajuraho. |
 |
| Our nighttime walk in Varanasi. |
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)